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Day 30 – St Louis Icons

We are spending three days in the St Louis area, enough for a tiny taste of what there is to see and do here. Our tour brought us to three of the most significant and impressive today, October 15.

Our first stop was the Old Missouri State Supreme Courthouse. Here, the appeal of Dred and Harriet Scott’s original lawsuit for their freedom from slavery was decided against them. They appealed this decision to the US Supreme Court. The court also decided against them, handing down what has become known as the Dred Scott decision. In ruling that the Scotts had no standing in federal court because the US Constitution never intended to include people of African descent as American citizens, the court thought it had decided the issue of slavery once and for all. Instead, the overt racism of the decision inflamed the political battle over slavery, helping to bring on the Civil War. The Dred Scott decision is now considered one of the worst the Supreme Court has ever made. Of course, the current court has already made one that comes close, and is teeing up a few more for the next session.

Monument to Dred and Harriet Scott in front of the Missouri State Supreme Courthouse.

A plaque honoring Joseph Pulitzer, the publisher and philanthropist, is embedded in the sidewalk near the Scotts’ monument.

Pulitzer began his publishing career with the St Louis Post-Dispatch
Missouri State Supreme Courthouse

If you face the courthouse and turn 180 degrees you will be facing the Mississippi River. Between the courthouse and the river stands the magnificent Gateway Arch. This soaring monument to America’s westward expansion and to St Louis as the gateway to the west has become the iconic symbol of St Louis since its construction in the 1960’s.

Beneath the arch is an excellent museum depicting the story of the Louisiana Purchase and the nation’s expansion westward beyond the Mississippi.

Thomas Jefferson monument in the museum. This section focuses on Jefferson’s vision of the country expanding across the continent.
Indigenous artifacts in the museum
Diorama of the St Louis waterfront in the 1800’s, prior to the Civil War

There is a section of the museum dedicated to the monument itself, telling the story of its conception in the 1930’s, the drive to create it as a national monument, the competition to select the design in the 1940’s, the three-year construction from 1963 – 1965, and the opening to the public in 1967.

The monument section focuses heavily on Eero Saarinen, the architect who won the design competition with the concept of an arch. The museum contains architectural models of the five finalists’ designs. It is easy to see why the arch inspired the selection committee.

Saarinen‘s model of the arch design
The Rainey design was the runner-up
Final model of the Arch, reflecting another exhibit. For the final design, Saarinen made the arch 630 feet high and 630 feet wide.
Two of Saarinen’s signature designs, the Gateway Arch and the Tulip Chair, are featured in the exhibit
This display features Saarinen in the center at his desk. On the left are five civic and national leaders who conceived the idea of the monument and worked to secure funding and support for its construction. On the right are five artists, engineers and construction leaders who transformed Saarinen‘s design into reality.
Luther Ely Smith, the man who sparked the original idea for the monument in St Louis, died in 1950. Eero Saarinen, who designed Gateway Arch National Park, died on September 1, 1961. Neither of them saw construction begin on February 12, 1963. The power of their vision carried on in those who accepted the challenge of completing this masterpiece.

The museum also includes an excellent documentary of the construction of the arch. The size, location and materials of the structure presented many challenges to the engineers and builders who built it. It is built in sections that stack on top of each other, but its shape made ground-based cranes impossible to use after the first 70 or so feet. A construction platform rode up each side of the arch on rails bolted to its spine. Subsequent sections were hoisted up by these platforms, then bolted and welded together by crews working on the platforms. The inner and outer steel skins were filled with steel tensioning rods and concrete to create a structure that can withstand the weather St Louis receives, including tornadoes.

This is well worth a look!

Our visit to the Arch concluded with a ride to the top in one of the trams that climb each leg of the structure from the inside. The views from the top are amazing!

Looking across the Mississippi River to Illinois
The Old Missouri Supreme Courthouse
Cardinals Stadium

As we were leaving I got a few more photos from different perspectives.

Desi standing at the base

After we left the Arch, we stopped for lunch at a busy bbq place near the monument.

We spent the afternoon at the Melvin Price Locks and Dam. This facility is the next-to-last in a series of 29 that control the river’s drop of 355 feet over 662 miles. These locks and dams have made large-scale commercial shipping on the Mississippi possible. They have also facilitated an aquatic version of full-time RV-ing known as “looping”. Loopers live on boats and spend a year or more navigating a course from New Orleans through the Gulf of Mexico, up the eastern coastline, through the St Lawrence Seaway, Great Lakes, and rivers back to New Orleans. I had never heard of this before but it’s quite an intriguing idea!

The National Great Rivers Museum is located at the locks and dam. The confluence of the Mississippi, Illinois and Missouri Rivers is just upstream.
We had an excellent tour guide from the Army Corps of Engineers
We were fortunate to be able to see a tug and barges going through the large lock. This lock is 120 feet long, and it just fits a tug and its load of 15 barges fastened together. This is a standard shipping configuration on the Mississippi. Remember those barges getting loaded up with cargo in St Paul? At 60 railroad cars each, this shipment is carrying 900 railroad cars worth of product. Wow!
Water level in the lock has dropped, the gates have opened, and the tug and its barges are moving through the gates.
There is a second, smaller lock at this complex, seen on the left. It can handle traffic that is smaller when the larger lock is tied up. The tug and barges that we have been watching is moving away in the distance.

2 responses to “Day 30 – St Louis Icons”

  1. WOW. How interesting. Terrific museums.

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  2. Love following your posts! Real armchair travel for me, and if you want to try looping (by land!) I’m a fan!
    Great documentation of three significant sights of history and engineering. I had no idea the Dred Scott decision occurred there or that the Mississippi has locks.
    My Father worked in the Saarinen office during the time the Arch was being planned and the project generated much excitement: an inspired design and a huge challenge for the engineers. John Dinkeloo, Dirk’s father, was the lead engineer in the Saarinen office and was one of the portraits in the bas relief sculpture (top, right). Such a shame Smith and Saarinen didn’t live to see their visions realized.
    Love the abstract photos of the Arch.

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