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Day 42 – Natchez

It’s October 27, and it’s been exactly six weeks since we left home and started this long journey. Today we visited the city of Natchez, Mississippi. We spent the morning touring Stanton Hall, the largest mansion in a city of large mansions. We also took a carriage ride through the center of the city with a terrific tour guide who pointed out some of the highlights.

Before we get to that, though, a little background on Natchez. Natchez was a major center of the cotton trade in the 1800’s. When the Civil War broke out, Natchez was the wealthiest city in the South. More multi-millionaires lived here than anywhere else. And at that time, a multi-millionaire was a fabulously wealthy person. The city did not join the Confederacy, but remained loyal to the Union. As a result, Natchez was not attacked and did not experience the ruin that Vicksburg had. The antebellum structures remained intact and are there to see today.

Quite a few houses in Natchez are open for touring. Since we were only there for a day, we visited Stanton Hall, the showplace of the city. It was built in 1851 – 1857 by an Irish immigrant who became a successful cotton trader, at a cost of $83,000 (!). It was intended to impress, and it does, as its scale is very grand. The property occupies an entire city block.

The property went through several hands in the subsequent generations, eventually serving as the home of the Stanton College for Young Ladies. In 1940 it was purchased by the Pilgrimage Garden Club, encouraged by one of its members who was a descendant of the architect. Remarkably, the club still owns it today. The home has been furnished with a stunning collection of antiques from the period, some of which were actual Stanton family pieces. The textiles are sumptuous restorations, many of which were acquired through some sharp trading by garden club members. These ladies have an eye for a good deal, just like the home’s original owner!

The pillars of the portico rower over you as you approach the entrance. The house was used as Frank Stanton’s trading office as well as the family home. The entrance was intended to impress guess and intimidate negotiators.
Micah, our tour guide, met us at the door and led us into the entry hall. This hall runs the full length of the house, front to back, an unusual layout.
This hall tree collected wet umbrellas, coats and hats. Not original to the family, but of the period when the house was built.
Micah explained that a signature feature of the house is its collection of gasoliers. Each is unique, designed for the space it occupies.
The right side of the house is occupied by double parlors. They can be closed off from each other with massive sliding doors. The house was used for settings of films and tv shows. One of them, North and South on ABC, contributed the drapery and carpeting that decorate the parlors.
Massive mirrors are at opposite ends of the double parlor, adding to the impression of spaciousness in the room.
The mirror in the second parlor
The second parlor has been furnished with its own piano and music stand.
Frank Stanton’s office continues the theme of grandeur and intimidation. The gasoline in this room features weapons of warfare.
This Elizabethan bookcase is also in the office. The intricate carvings depict themes from John Milton’s Paradise Lost.
The bedrooms are furnished with suites that are of the period. The furniture is large, ornate and impressive.
All the doors in the house are made of cypress. This wood is lightweight and strong but not especially attractive. Painted wood grain was added to spruce them up.
The dining room table and china service are original to the family.
The dining room gasolier features hunting scenes and fruits.

When our tour of Stanton Hall ended we went into the center of town for a carriage tour of the city. Our driver and guide. Chris, was a former fireman and a good storyteller.

We toured the city in three carriages with 8 of us in each carriage, pulled by a single horse. This fellow pulled the carriage behind ours.
Our carriage is almost ready to go. Jerry and Jet are in front, David and Shirley in the middle, and Des and I in the back. Before we left, Bill and Elaine joined us.
This was the home and shop of William Johnson, a free black man who operated a barber shop in town and owned property outside of town. It’s a museum today.
Natchez courthouse. It is surrounded with huge live oaks.
Natchez city hall
An old and spreading live oak. These trees can live hundreds of years.
The original Natchez Eola Hotel. This hotel was built in the 1920’s and helped start the Natchez antebellum tourist trade. It had been closed for a number of years but was reopened in 2021.
A little house with privacy steps. At one time it was a custom that a man who saw a woman’s ankle would have to marry her. Privacy steps provided a separate side for men and women to mitigate the risk of an unplanned union.
This is Stanton House from the exterior
A lovely Victorian
An old firehouse converted to a home.
The two S-shaped brackets on the side of this building connect to an iron rod that runs through the attic and connects to similar brackets on the opposite side. This adds stability to the walls. Our driver, a former fireman, said that it was common for the rods to fail during a fire, making the building very dangerous to enter.
A local shopkeeper fed our horse a banana
The light patch at the bottom of the wall below the lamp marks the center of the city. It was used for surveying purposes
The Roman Catholic Cathedral. Natchez has houses of worship representing a wide variety of religions and denominations.
The synagogue
The synagogue’s front entrance
The Episcopal church
A chief of the Natchez tribe
City street scene. Another carriage on our tour is in front of us.
The actor George Hamilton owned this house for a time. While it was his he had it painted a bright purple, which scandalized the town.
Townspeople claim it’s been impossible to cover the purple completely. If you look closely you may see a mauve tint bleeding through the white.
Not every house in Natchez is a mansion. There are many very charming smaller ones.
Another little cutie

By the end of our carriage tour we knew the old city of Natchez fairly well. We hadn’t yet visited Natchez Under the Hill, the riverside section of town. The city center is built on a high bluff overlooking the Mississippi. Natchez Under the Hill is where the riverfront work took place, where the brothels and saloons were. It was pretty wild and dangerous down there back in the 1800’s. Today it’s cleaned up for company and worth a look.

Downstream is the bridge between Natchez and Vidalia, LA, where our campground was.
Upstream, a working boat and raft of barges with a tug are navigating the river.
There are two boat launches for pleasure boats here. The water level is so low that they are unusable.
One saloon remains from the town’s wild days. You can still get a drink here.

By the time we trooped back up the hill the the town center we were ready for some lunch. We stopped at Pasta on Pearl for a nice meal of homemade pasta and salad, a nice break from bbq. Then we visited Old South Winery to try their muscadine wines. Not bad although not my favorite. While chatting with the proprietor we found that Natchez has been impacted in recent years by the exodus of several major employers. This leaves the town largely dependent on tourism. This is not ideal of course, but the town is making the best of it by sprucing up many historical properties and encouraging visitors. We were glad we got to see it and would definitely return in the future for a more detailed look.

3 responses to “Day 42 – Natchez”

  1. Wanda’s back. We missed her adventure updates.

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  2. With all my Civil War reading, I did not know that Natchez remained in the Union

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  3. Another enlightening post, thank you!
    Natchez sounds like a town worth visiting to see what antebellum life might have been.

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