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Southern Utah

We chose Panguitch as our home base for our time in Southern Utah. This is such a spectacular area with many options for camping. Panguitch is close to Utah’s Highway 12, which provides access to Red Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument, Kodachrome Basin, and Capitol Reef National Park, among other stunning destinations. We lost two days of our planned stay due to the weather delay at Lake Powell, but we still managed to see quite a bit of this area. It is some of the most spectacular scenery in the country, no question about it.

Before we look at the places we visited, it’s helpful to have some background on the Grand Staircase formation. This massive geological wonder extends from Bryce Canyon on the north to the Grand Canyon on the south. Zion Canyon National Park is considered the western boundary, and Capitol Reef National Park the eastern boundary. Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument comprises much of the formation that exists within those general boundaries. The layers of sedimentary rock visible here form a massive β€œstaircase” with the various layers easily distinguished by their predominant color. They once covered a much larger area, but much of it has been eroded away over time. Our National Park system preserves this critical piece of geological history for the world to observe, examine and enjoy.

Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon packs so much into such a relatively small space! Its wonders can be seen by driving to the scenic overlooks, or taking a shuttle between the overlooks in the β€œamphitheater”, or by hiking the amphitheater trails. Our preferred method would be to hike, but Gracie was not permitted on the non-paved trails, and the weather was not the best on some days. So we drove the length of the park one day, and did the amphitheater another day. Normally it’s difficult to drive between these stops as the parking at each one is limited and this popular park is often crowded, but we were there early enough in the season that it was possible to do it.

The Bryce Park Road

This 18-mile road extends the full length of the park from the park entrance to Rainbow Point. It’s recommended to drive to the end of it, view the overlooks there, and then view the remaining overlooks on the way back. Since all the overlooks will be on your right on the way back, it’s easier to get in and out of them in that direction.

This is the view from Rainbow Point, the furthest overlook on the park road. On a clear day you can see to the Grand Canyon from here. Unfortunately the weather was not with us, but it was a pretty long view anyway.
It was a cold day, especially at the higher elevations on the road. Those clouds in the distance were bringing snow into the area.
As we proceeded back down the road to the visitor’s center, we began to see the spires and hoodoos that the park is known for. Hoodoos are columns of rock that can appear to have human characteristics. Ancient people who lived here thought of them as people who had been frozen into stone as punishment for some offense. They give a surreal quality to the landscape, that’s for sure!
This sweeping wall of stone is crowned with hoodoos. Snow covers the distant mountains.
This imposing pillar shows off some of the different colors of rock in the Grand Staircase layers.
Hoodoos in the making…
The Natural Bridge
As we neared the end of the road, snow moved in and closed off the views. We headed back to camp to warm up!

The Bryce Amphitheater

The amphitheater is a section of the park with many cliffs, walls, castles and hoodoos. There are several trails that meander through it, and the Rim Trail and Under-Rim Trail that run along its top edge. It has four viewpoints: Bryce, Inspiration, Sunset and Sunrise. We were lucky to be able to visit it by driving between the viewpoints. I would not recommend this during the summer!

View into the amphitheater and beyond from Bryce Point.
A little bit of snow still hanging around on that slope
These hoodoos look like the tribal council gathered around a campfire, or a Paleolithic chess set
It’s fun to invent characterizations and backstories for these hoodoos!
The Queen’s Garden Trail descending into the canyon
The trail continues to wind through this castle formation
The trail in the foreground continues in front of these walls guarded by giant hoodoo formations.
Is it any wonder that Bryce is a favorite with visitors to Utah’s Mighty Five!

Red Canyon

Red Canyon is a US Forest Service recreation area, not a National Park like Bryce is. It has beautiful geological formations, fantastic views, great hiking trails, and you can bring your dog with you on your hikes. It was also very close to our campground in Panguitch. It became a favorite destination during our stay in the area.

The Golden Wall / Castle Bridge / Buckhorn Loop

We spent a day hiking this loop. It’s a little over 4 miles long, with just over 1000 feet of elevation gain. The views are spectacular, the closeups to hoodoos are impressive, and it’s just a wonderful day out on the trail. Be advised – the Forest Service visitor center where maps would ordinarily be available was not open at any time during our visit. The AllTrails app for iPhone (and probably Android) has this trail in its collection. Download the map before you head out to keep yourself on track during your hike.

Des and Gracie at the start of our hike
The vistas changed as we climbed to the top
Once we reached the top of the first climb, the view was impressive!

The next section of the hike featured a garden of cliffs and hoodoos in sometimes startling arrangements.

A hoodoo community marching down a slope
A headless hoodoo – or two?
The hoodoo on the left is balancing on a very tiny footprint!

By the time we returned to the parking lot to pick up our truck, we were feeling like we’d had a long day out on the trail. But a very satisfying one!

Birdseye, Pink Ledges Trails

These shorter trails begin in the area of the visitors center. They can be explored in an hour or so, and offer some nice views. We had planned a longer trek on them but saw the rain moving in and decided to stick to the lower elevations. It was still a nice hike!

Kodachrome Basin

This is a Utah State Park with an intriguing name! You might think you would see some colorful scenery here, and you would be right.

This imposing pillar stands like a sentinel among the pink and white cliffs.
From another angle, it looks like a hoodoo couple don’t you think?
Lots of these solitary pillars in this area of Kodachrome.
Here are a couple more

In addition to beautiful views and impressive rock formations, Kodachrome Basin has a nice little visitors’ center. We stopped by on our way out to relax in the hammock chairs and sample some of the killer ice cream they serve up. The staff were even happy to give us a little cup of vanilla for Gracie, who was thrilled! This park is well worth a visit!

Tip – there is very little shade here, and on a hot day this park can get very warm. Bring plenty of water, and schedule your visit in the early morning or late afternoon if possible.

3 responses to “Southern Utah”

  1. Love this! Very well-written and interesting to read. Thanks for sharing πŸ™‚

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  2. I am so very happy that the 3 of you are taking this trip across the country and I hope it’s everything you and more. Your photographs are stunning and your commentary is so informative. And also whimsical at the same time very hard to accomplish, but you did it. Thank you for sharing so many beautiful images of places. Many of us may never go, but we’re going through your eyes because you’re and we’re grateful.

    Love you all To The Moon & Back. Stay well and keep on truckin’

    Beth & Michael

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    1. Thanks you two! We are having a blast out here and happy to take virtual passengers with us! Looking forward to seeing you when we get back.

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